The rumours are true. Driving in Milan was completely lawless (and I say this having lived and ridden a motorbike in Cambodia.) We caught the tail end of rush hour and carefully made our way to our apartment, conveniently located just 3 blocks from the Duomo.
Jeff had one final adventure on the way home. I upgraded his ticket to first class using points, and among other things, he got picked up on the runway by a private driver in a Mercedes, and he got to hang out in a special lounge with bellota ham and a Jacuzzi.